Discover Shekhawati: Rajasthan’s Timeless Treasure of Havelis and Artistic Marvels

Shekhawati is the kind of place that quietly gets under your skin. Spread across the districts of Churu, Jhunjhunu, and Sikar in northeast Rajasthan, this region looks, at first glance, like a series of dusty desert towns – until you look up and see entire streets lined with frescoed havelis, painted gates, and quiet courtyards that feel frozen in another era.

Often described as the world’s largest open-air art gallery, Shekhawati offers far more than just pretty walls. It tells a layered story of Marwari merchants, caravan routes, colonial-era change, and desert resilience – all still visible if you know where to look and give yourself enough time to wander.

Shekhawati in Context: Where History Meets Desert Landscapes

The name “Shekhawati” comes from Rao Shekha, a 15th-century Rajput ruler whose descendants governed this belt for generations. Over time, the region evolved into a cradle for Marwari merchant families who later became some of India’s most influential business houses, but whose emotional and cultural anchors remained in these towns.

Sitting on the eastern fringes of the Thar Desert, Shekhawati lies roughly between Jaipur and Bikaner and forms a natural stop on road journeys connecting Delhi, Jaipur, and western Rajasthan.

Today, Shekhawati tourism typically revolves around a cluster of key towns – Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Dundlod, Fatehpur, Ramgarh, Jhunjhunu, Alsisar, Bissau, Khetri, Churu, and Sikar among others – all known for painted havelis, forts, chhatris, and temples that together form a distinct cultural corridor.

In recent years, Rajasthan’s tourism department has also started structured efforts to revive old havelis and promote a Shekhawati heritage circuit that connects core centres like Nawalgarh, Dundlod, Laxmangarh, Ramgarh, Fatehpur, Khetri, Mandawa, and Mahansar, recognising the region’s potential as a standalone destination rather than just an add-on to Jaipur or Bikaner itineraries.

The Painted Havelis: Shekhawati’s Open-Air Art Gallery

From the late 18th to the early 20th century, local Marwari merchants poured their wealth into building sprawling havelis – multi-courtyard mansions designed for large joint families – and into decorating every possible surface with frescoes. These families often made their money in booming colonial cities like Mumbai and Kolkata, then sent funds back to Shekhawati to commission homes that reflected both their roots and their exposure to the wider world.

The result is a visual language that is uniquely Shekhawati – a blend of myth, folklore, and early modernity:

• Mythology – episodes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, scenes of Lord Rama’s battles, and Lord Krishna’s childhood pranks and divine interventions, often stretching across entire walls.
• Folklore and daily life – the romantic saga of Dhola and Maru riding a camel through the dunes, village weddings, tradesmen at work, courtesans, and royal processions.
• Colonial-era modernity – trains, steamers, soldiers, telegraph lines, telephones, motor cars, aeroplanes, and gentlemen in Western hats, added as merchants encountered an industrialising world.

Many painters worked from postcards and travellers’ descriptions rather than firsthand observation, which is why certain trains, ships, or European costumes look slightly stylised or off-scale – a detail that makes the frescoes feel even more human and endearing.

While time, weather, and migration have damaged many frescoes, key towns still preserve enough painted surfaces to make hours of slow exploration worthwhile. Restoration efforts in recent years are helping stabilise some of the more important structures for future generations.

Key Towns and Attractions in Shekhawati

Because Shekhawati is a region rather than a single city, the most sensible way to approach it is to think in clusters. Below are the main experiences and places you can build your itinerary around, using your base town as an anchor.

Sethani Ka Johara, Churu – Community, Water, and Winter Birds

Roughly 5 km west of Churu on the north side of the road lies Sethani Ka Johara, a large reservoir built in 1899 by a wealthy merchant woman to provide relief during a severe famine. It is a powerful reminder of how water structures in Rajasthan blend utility, philanthropy, and design.

In winter, you’ll often see migratory birds and local wildlife such as nilgai around the water, and the setting sun paints the surface in soft gold. If you’re driving between Churu and nearby towns, it’s an easy and worthwhile detour.

Kanhaiyalal Bagla Haveli – Dhola–Maru on the Walls

South of the main bazaar area, Kanhaiyalal Bagla Haveli is a good starting point if you want to understand Shekhawati’s storytelling tradition. Its walls famously showcase the folk love story of Dhola and Maru – the star-crossed couple escaping on camelback – painted in multiple episodes, surrounded by floral borders and everyday vignettes.

The haveli also demonstrates classic features like intricately carved jharokhas (overhanging balconies), wooden doors, and an inward-looking layout that keeps courtyards cool even in harsh summers.

Aath Kambh Chhatri – Eight Pillars in the Sand

Aath Kambh Chhatri (“eight-pillared cenotaph”) stands near the northern side of town, believed to date back to the late 18th century. Over decades, the desert wind has carried sand that has gradually buried much of its plinth, so the structure seems to rise straight out of the ground.

Inside, fragments of murals and carved stone details still cling to the pillars and ceilings. It’s a place where you really feel the push-and-pull between human craft and desert forces – and a good reminder of why ongoing conservation is so important in regions like this.

Laxminarayan Temple, Churu – Understated but Elegant

Laxminarayan Temple looks fairly simple from the outside, but don’t let that fool you. Step through the entrance and you’ll find a projected foliated arch and soft, calming murals that instantly change the mood.

The temple is easily reachable within Churu town and works well as a short, contemplative stop between haveli walks. If you’re travelling with elders or anyone who appreciates quieter, devotional spaces, this is one to keep on your list.

Digambar Jain Temple – Glass, Gold, and Moral Stories

Built roughly 150 years ago, the Digambar Jain Temple in the region feels more like a jewel box than a conventional temple courtyard. Its interiors are lavish – mirror work, glass mosaics, and golden accents combine to create a space that catches and reflects light in every direction.

Many panels are dedicated to Jain moral teachings and narratives, making the visit as much an ethical reminder as an aesthetic experience. Do allow your eyes time to adjust; the more you look, the more layers of pattern and detail emerge.

Tal Chhapar Sanctuary – Blackbuck and Birds on the Grasslands

Tal Chhapar Sanctuary, in Chhapar village of Churu district, is a great way to add wildlife to a Shekhawati trip. The landscape is a flat, open grassland dotted with trees, which makes spotting animals easier than in thick forest.

The sanctuary is best known for its healthy blackbuck population and for attracting a variety of resident and migratory birds during winter. If you’re keen on birding, November to February is considered the optimum season as many migratory species arrive alongside pleasant weather.

Laxmangarh Fort – A Fort on Scattered Rocks

On the western side of Laxmangarh town rises an eye-catching fort built on scattered massive rocks rather than a single hill – an architectural quirk that makes it stand out from other forts in Rajasthan.

Climbing up to the ramparts rewards you with a panoramic view of the town below, whose grid-like pattern invites comparison with Jaipur’s layout. It’s a good option if you enjoy a mix of vantage points and historical architecture.

Mansa Devi Temple – A Hill Shrine Near Udaipurwati

About 25 km from Udaipurwati, near Khoh-Guda village in Jhunjhunu district, Mansa Devi Temple offers a tranquil, semi-hill setting away from town noise. Located around 5 km west of Khoh village, the shrine is surrounded by gentle hills and sparse vegetation, making it a calm retreat.

During Navratri, the temple attracts a significant number of devotees, and the usually quiet environment turns festive. At other times, it’s the kind of place where you sit on the steps for a while and let the silence work its way in.

Raghunathji Mandir (Bara Mandir) – Devotion Near Ratangarh

Near Ratangarh, Raghunathji Mandir – also known as Bara Mandir – is dedicated to Lord Raghunath, a form of Lord Vishnu. The temple is believed to date back to the early 19th century and features an elevated entrance and a line of cupolas crowning the roof.

Locals often visit seeking psychological and spiritual relief, and many consider it a place associated with liberation from life’s burdens. For visitors passing through Ratangarh, it’s a meaningful stop for both architecture and atmosphere.

Fatehpur – Cultural Capital of Shekhawati

Founded in 1508 CE by Kayamkhani Nawab Fateh Mohammad, Fatehpur quickly rose in prominence and later served as the capital of the Sikar principality. Today it’s widely regarded as the cultural capital of Shekhawati, with a rich blend of Islamic and Rajput influences layered over merchant-era havelis.

The Fatehpur Fort, constructed in 1516, still anchors the town. Around it, you’ll find a dense cluster of havelis and temples that make Fatehpur a rewarding area to walk through, especially in the early morning or late afternoon when the light softens.

Highlights in Fatehpur include:

• Dwarkadheesh Mandir – a temple dedicated to Lord Krishna with detailed decorative work.
• Singhania Haveli – known for frescos and architectural flourishes.
• Nadine Le Prince Cultural Centre – a restored haveli turned cultural hub.
• Fatehchandka Haveli – another noteworthy house reflecting the town’s mercantile past.

Ramgarh – Once Among the Wealthiest Towns

Established in 1791 by the Poddar family, Ramgarh rose to be one of the wealthiest towns in 19th-century India thanks to thriving merchant activity. That legacy shows in the number and scale of its havelis, temple complexes, and chhatris.

Do not miss:

• Ramgopal Chhatri – an ornate cenotaph with extensive carving and painting, often photographed for its silhouette and details.
• Poddar Haveli – a fine example of merchant architecture associated with the family that founded the town.

Much of Ramgarh is best appreciated on foot. Even when specific buildings are closed, their facades alone tell you volumes about the wealth that once flowed through these streets.

Khetri Mahal – The Wind Palace of Jhunjhunu

In Khetri town, Khetri Mahal (sometimes loosely called the “Wind Palace” of Jhunjhunu) is a wonderful lesson in climate-responsive design. Built around 1770, it’s known not for decorative doors and windows, but for their relative absence.

Its rooms, pillars, and arches are interlinked in a way that encourages constant airflow, keeping interiors cooler than the harsh outside air. Even in its weathered state, the Mahal offers striking photographic opportunities with its repetitive arches and soaring internal volumes.

Rani Sati Mandir, Jhunjhunu – A Major Pilgrimage Centre

Rani Sati Mandir in Jhunjhunu is one of the most important pilgrimage centres in the region, with a history of around four centuries. The temple is dedicated to Rani Sati, venerated by many as an embodiment of courage and devotion.

The main temple is built with white marble and decorated with colourful paintings. The campus also includes shrines dedicated to deities such as Hanuman, Sita, Ganesh, and Shiva, along with organised facilities for accommodation and other services for pilgrims.

Every year on Bhado Amavasya, a major festival draws large crowds for special pujas and darshan, turning the complex into a sea of devotees. If you prefer a quieter experience, aim for weekdays outside key festival dates.

Mandawa – Classic Shekhawati Base

Mandawa, located between Jhunjhunu and Sikar, is often the most recognisable Shekhawati town for first-time visitors. It has evolved into a popular base for exploring the surrounding region, thanks to its central location and range of heritage stays.

Mandawa’s lanes are densely lined with painted havelis, including:

• Bhagato Ki Haveli
• Morarka Haveli
• Grand Haveli
• Koolwal Kothi
• Roop Niwas Palace (in nearby Nawalgarh but often combined with Mandawa plans)
• Aaath Haveli cluster

Mandawa’s atmospheric streets and heritage structures have featured in numerous Indian and international films, which has boosted its visibility while still leaving enough quieter corners for independent travellers.

Many visitors based in Mandawa make a side trip to the Dr. Ramnath A. Poddar Museum in Nawalgarh, which uses curated displays to contextualise the lifestyle and art of Shekhawati’s merchant families.

Dundlod – Forts, Chhatris, and Marwari Horses

Dundlod, a small village near Jhunjhunu, offers a compact but rich slice of Shekhawati heritage. The central attraction is the Dundlod Fort, built in 1750 by Keshari Singh, son of Sardul Singh, blending Rajput and Mughal architectural elements.

The fort, along with nearby havelis, showcases frescoes, carved stone, and wooden detailing characteristic of Shekhawati. Dundlod is also associated with the Marwari horse breed, known for its arched ears and stamina, and some properties in the area continue to maintain stables as part of their heritage identity.

Nearby, the Ram Dutt Goenka Chhatri stands out for its floral motifs and painted dome. Dundlod sits on popular Shekhawati driving circuits that connect Mandawa, Nawalgarh, and other towns.

Alsisar – Desert Town with a Royal Palace

Alsisar, in the arid belt of Jhunjhunu, became a capital for Thakur Samarth Singh in 1783 after he received it from his father. It is best known today for Alsisar Mahal, a restored palace that combines Rajput architecture with frescoed interiors and courtyards.

The town also features multiple havelis, cenotaphs, and temples such as Kejriwal Haveli, Laxmi Narayan Temple, Thakur Chaatu Singh’s cenotaph, and Ram Jas Jhunjhunwala Ki Haveli, offering enough variety for a full day of exploration.

Bissau – Fortified Heritage Village

Bissau, once known as Vishala Jat Ki Dhani, was fortified in 1746 CE by Thakur Keshri Singh, who came from the line of MahaRao Shardul Singh Ji. He constructed a war fort and defensive boundary wall, giving Bissau the character of a small fortified town rather than a simple village.

The ruling family belongs to the Bhojraj clan of Shekhawats, descendants of Maharao Shekha, which ties Bissau closely into the broader Shekhawati lineage. Walking through Bissau today, you still feel layers of martial and administrative history in the way the streets and structures are arranged.

Nawalgarh – Golden City of Shekhawati

Nawalgarh, founded in the 18th century, sits roughly midway between Sikar and Jhunjhunu and is often called one of the most important haveli towns of Shekhawati. Many prominent Indian business families trace their roots here, which partly explains the scale and quality of the mansions.

Nawalgarh Fort and nearby Roop Niwas Palace anchor the town’s heritage circuit, while multiple havelis and the Dr. Ramnath A. Poddar Museum help visitors understand the region’s social and artistic history. Nawalgarh also doubles up as a filming location thanks to its well-preserved facades and atmospheric streets.

How to Reach Shekhawati

Given that Shekhawati is a region, not a single city, there’s no one “Shekhawati station” or airport. Instead, you choose entry points based on your broader route and the towns you want to prioritise.

By Road

Road travel is the most practical and flexible way to explore Shekhawati. State highways and local roads connect the region to major cities in Rajasthan and North India.

• From Jaipur – Approximately 140–150 km to core towns like Mandawa or Jhunjhunu, depending on your exact base.
• From Delhi – Around 270–300 km to the main Shekhawati belt, typically via Rewari and Narnaul or via Jaipur-side routes.
• From Bikaner – About 330–340 km to Mandawa/nearby towns, often combined in longer road circuits.

State transport and private buses connect Shekhawati towns such as Jhunjhunu, Sikar, and Churu with Jaipur, Delhi, Bikaner, and other hubs, but bus travel is better suited for point-to-point journeys than for detailed sightseeing.

By Train

Jhunjhunu and Churu act as key railheads for Shekhawati. Jhunjhunu lies on a broad-gauge line connecting to Delhi and other cities via intermediate junctions, while Churu is part of the northern Rajasthan rail network.

Once you arrive by train, you can hire taxis or local cars to reach nearby towns such as Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur, or Ramgarh. In practice, most travellers use rail for entry or exit and road transport for local exploration.

By Air

Jaipur International Airport is the closest major airport to the Shekhawati region. From Jaipur, you can book a direct taxi or self-drive car to your chosen base – Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Jhunjhunu, or Churu – or connect by bus if you’re travelling on a tighter budget.

Travellers arriving in Delhi can also drive directly to Shekhawati or use a combination of rail and road, depending on the itinerary.

Choosing a Base: Towns Compared

If you’re planning a 3–5 day Shekhawati trip, picking the right base can reduce backtracking and make your days smoother. The table below offers a quick comparison to help you decide.

Practical Shekhawati Travel Tips

Best Time to Visit

The most comfortable months to explore Shekhawati are October to March, when daytime temperatures are better suited to walking through towns and climbing fort steps.

• October–November – Post-monsoon clarity, pleasant days, cooler evenings.
• December–February – Cold mornings and nights but excellent for full days of exploration.
• March – Warming up, but still manageable with early starts.

For Tal Chhapar, November to February is particularly good for birding, as migratory species are present and temperatures are moderate.

Transport Within the Region

Local buses and shared jeeps are useful for residents, but they rarely line up perfectly with visitor itineraries. Realistically, hiring a private car and driver – even if just for a couple of days – remains the most efficient way to cover multiple towns and lesser-known sites.

Advantages include:

• Flexibility to stop at small havelis, joharas, and viewpoints.
• Ability to connect towns like Mandawa–Fatehpur–Ramgarh–Mahansar in one loop, or Mandawa–Mukundgarh–Dundlod–Nawalgarh, without juggling bus timings.
• Freedom from worrying about last-bus timings or remote-road breakdowns.

Dress Code and Local Etiquette

Shekhawati’s towns are still fairly conservative, especially away from heritage hotels. Dressing modestly – covering shoulders and knees – helps you blend in and keeps interactions warm.

• Carry a light scarf or stole to cover your head or shoulders in temples.
• Remove footwear where indicated, particularly in religious sites and some haveli interiors.
• Ask before photographing people, especially women and elders in markets or villages.

A simple “Ram Ram” or “Namaste” greeting almost always brings a smile and opens doors to conversations.

Managing Haveli Fatigue

One real-world challenge travellers face is “fresco fatigue” – after a dozen painted walls, they start to blur together. To avoid this, it helps to pick a handful of standout sites in each town and then leave space for unscripted wandering.

1. Identify 2–3 major havelis (often with partial restoration or guided access).
2. Spend at least 30–45 minutes at each, paying attention to themes and craftsmanship.
3. Use the remaining time for street-level exploration without a fixed target, allowing smaller, unlabelled facades to catch your eye.

This approach typically leaves you more energised than trying to “do” every building, and you’ll remember individual stories instead of just counting sites.

Cultural and Food Experiences

Beyond monuments, Shekhawati is a fantastic place to experience desert cuisine and small-town routines.

• Food – Look for dal baati churma, ker sangri, gatte ki sabzi, and bajra rotis cooked over open flames.
• Snacks and sweets – Kachoris, samosas, and local barfis or pedas are easy, everyday treats.
• Markets – Evening markets often combine everyday groceries with small stalls selling bangles, textiles, and simple jewellery.

More heritage properties and homestays are now offering low-key experiences – guided walks, folk performances on select evenings, or basic cooking demonstrations – which help connect the architecture you see with the rhythms of daily life.

Accommodation: Heritage Stays vs Simple Hotels

You’ll find a mix of heritage hotels (converted havelis and forts) and simpler lodges across Shekhawati. Each option has its own character.

• Heritage properties – Often atmospheric, with courtyards, painted rooms, and traditional architecture. Expect slight imperfections (uneven floors, old staircases) as part of the charm rather than full five-star polish.
• Standard hotels – More functional, sometimes closer to bus stands or markets, better if you prioritise convenience and lower costs over ambience.

For most travellers interested in Shekhawati’s essence, spending at least one or two nights in a haveli-style or fort-style property is worth the small compromises – waking up to inner courtyards and painted ceilings is part of the experience.

Safety and Health

Shekhawati is generally considered safe, but basic precautions still apply:

• Keep valuables tucked away and use hotel safes where available.
• Be cautious on dark, deserted streets late at night, especially in unfamiliar lanes.
• Carry a small medical kit – including ORS, basic medicines, and any personal prescriptions.
• Drink bottled or filtered water and be selective about street food if you have a sensitive stomach.

For Tal Chhapar and other outdoor excursions, sunscreen, a hat, and adequate hydration are essential, particularly from late February onward when temperatures rise quickly.

Shopping and Souvenirs

Shekhawati is not a dedicated shopping hub like Jaipur, but it offers thoughtful, grounded purchases if you look carefully:

• Hand-embroidered dupattas and local textiles.
• Simple silver jewellery, lac bangles, and small trinkets.
• Brass and metal household items that reflect everyday Rajasthani life.
• Occasional antiques or architectural fragments (buy responsibly and avoid anything that appears looted from heritage sites).

Supporting smaller, family-run shops and artisans ensures your spending stays within the local economy, which indirectly supports the preservation of havelis and traditional crafts.

FAQs About Visiting Shekhawati

How many days should I plan for Shekhawati?

For a first visit, 3–4 days is a good starting point, allowing you to base yourself in Mandawa or Nawalgarh and visit nearby towns like Dundlod, Fatehpur, and Ramgarh. If you’re including Tal Chhapar, Alsisar, and more offbeat places, 5–6 days offers a more relaxed and immersive experience.

Is Shekhawati suitable for families and older travellers?

Yes. The pace is generally slower than big cities, and the environment is calm. The main consideration is mobility: many havelis and forts involve steep or narrow staircases and uneven flooring. Families travelling with elders often pick one or two key sites a day and use the rest of the time for gentler walks and courtyard relaxation.

Can I visit Shekhawati as a day trip from Jaipur or Delhi?

It is technically possible from Jaipur with a very early start, but it becomes a rushed day with more time on the road than in the towns. From Delhi, a same-day return is even more compressed. Staying at least one night – ideally two or more – gives you far better value for the travel effort.

Are the havelis free to enter?

Entry rules vary. Some havelis have been converted into museums or heritage hotels and charge a formal ticket; others are private residences where access may not be possible. In a few cases, caretakers may allow you in for a small tip. Local guides typically know which buildings are open, under restoration, or best viewed only from the outside.

What’s the current status of Tal Chhapar Sanctuary?

Tal Chhapar Sanctuary is open to visitors and continues to be a popular stop for blackbuck sightings and birdwatching. Visiting hours generally fall within daylight, with jeep safaris available through local arrangements. It is always wise to confirm current timings and charges before planning your visit.

How crowded is Rani Sati Mandir?

On regular days, Rani Sati Mandir sees a steady but manageable flow of devotees. On Bhado Amavasya and other key festival dates, the number of visitors increases dramatically. If you prefer a quieter experience, aim for weekdays outside major festival periods.

Is English widely understood?

In heritage hotels, better restaurants, and among guides, basic to good English is common. In smaller shops and villages, Hindi and local dialects dominate. Simple phrases and a willingness to communicate with gestures usually work well.

Can I combine Shekhawati with other Rajasthan highlights?

Yes. Many travellers now combine Shekhawati with Jaipur, Bikaner, and Jaisalmer in a western Rajasthan loop, or use it as a cultural introduction before heading south towards Jodhpur and Udaipur. The region fits naturally into both short and extended itineraries.

Do I need to book everything in advance?

In peak winter months (December–January), advance bookings for popular heritage stays are a smart idea, especially in Mandawa, Nawalgarh, and Alsisar. Outside these periods, you often have more flexibility, but pre-booking at least your first night helps reduce arrival stress.

Conclusion: Why Shekhawati Belongs on Your Travel Map

Shekhawati is not a place you “finish” in a checklist sense. It is a region that slowly reveals itself through faded archways, half-forgotten frescoes, evening temple bells, and conversations with people whose families have watched fortunes rise and fall over generations.

With renewed attention from travellers looking beyond the standard Jaipur–Jodhpur–Udaipur triangle, Shekhawati is finally beginning to get the recognition it has quietly deserved for decades. It offers an unusually rich blend of art, architecture, story, and landscape in a relatively compact area.

If you value heritage and human stories as much as you value grand monuments, give this region more than a passing glance on your next Rajasthan trip. Stay inside an old haveli, wake up to painted courtyards, wander through near-empty lanes, and let Shekhawati show you why it remains one of India’s most evocative windows into the past.